For many years, I have had the curiosity to explore the town of Zaragoza(SPAIN) during their big holiday known as
las Fiestas del Pilar
. And birthday number 30 gave me just the incentive I needed to get over there and check this place out... here is what I have to share...
The name Pilar originates in Zaragoza from the way back when. Mary, la mama de Jesus(not my mechanic, but the original), while still alive and living in Jerusalem, appears to Saint James the Apostle on a pillar. Her message, although I didn't get it directly from our man James, went something like this..."build a church in my name. be it the first "Mary-iane" (mother) church. here is a pillar to get you started."

And fast forward to present day and Z-town did indeed follow through with building the Church of Mary, La Basilica de Nuestra Sra. Pilar. (because Mary appeared on the mighty pillar, they gave her the nickname Pilar... just one L!) It is a beautiful baroque-style cathedral, and present in the Chapel of Pilar, is the exact pillar she appeared on! Imagine that? And they say, a site of many miracles...
After hearing this great story of my name and knowing how much it meant to the people of Zaragoza, I wanted to experience the fiestas for myself, and this year it happened to coincide with my 30th birthday... I set out on my journey "abroad" alone, leaving behind my new/old homeland of Mexico, continuing with the no-plan-plan way of travel.
I forgot that Europe is all about walking and came totally unprepared with no shoes fit for the miles and miles and miles and miles I was about to walk. Duh! A pilgrimage with no walking shoes? What was I thinking? Just within the first hour(still in Mexico City airport) of wearing shoes(remember it's been 6 months of bare feet and flip flops), I had blisters on both feet. Shit. First day in Zaragoza, and I figure flip flips at least would give my blisters time/space to heal, but are Havianas really made for long distance walks?

First thing I do when I arrive is head straight to the Plaza de Nuestra Sra. Pilar and the famous cathedral to see what this place is all about(and to see if anyone is home...Pilar, mi tocaya). Along the way, I can see them gearing up for the prime weekend of fiesta-ing. This is "THE PARTY" of the year in Zaragoza and they spare no expense at going all out... PILAR everywhere. Seeing it and hearing my name all over the streets is a strange thing considering my background where almost no one is familiar with my name, let alone the pronunciation of it. Probably half of the women in Zaragoza are named Pilar... and especially anyone born on the 12th of October. For me, it was pure coincidence. The name was decided prior and i just happened to be born on the day of Pilar. strange? coincidence? I say no.

I arrive at the Plaza with really only wanting to sit in the church and meditate, but first things first, a bocadillo(spaniard sandwich) to get things started. Only one problem here...the Spaniards and their damn customer service. So fucking rude. At first, I take an offense to this. How could me, being nice, provoke assholeism? Later on I learn, the ruder you are, the better service you get... but that's just not my style, so I settle with not taking it personally and trying my best to have compassion for the unhappy souls in service... (and saying fuck it to tipping, just like the rest of Europe... also not my style... But "when in Rome"...or Zaragoza...)
I was overcome with something that you might call sacredness as I walked in the doors of the Cathedral. The choir of angels did not start singing in my ears, but something like that... All I could do was sit in awe of the miracle of being present in this 'holy' site... a birthplace of La Pilar. I felt honored. Privileged. Grateful. It was something to meditate on and keep me coming back everyday.

Outside the church, I didn't really know what to do other than walk and watch. Im in total solitude mode, anti-tourist mode, and non-spender mode. So I'm left walking, exploring, and eating of course... Jamon! Croissants!! Queso! Tapas! The more time out of my closet-space-of-a-sad-room, the better... But damn do my feet ache...
On the eve of my actual birthday, an old friend from Mexico, living in Madrid, arrived to help me celebrate. Inside, I had my doubts about his visit, and not because I don't love him as a friend, but because it feels like a solo trip and re-living another birthday in a bar just doesn't appeal to me this time around. No gracias. But.. I did tell him I was going to be there, so I guess some part of me wanted birthday company. Upon arrival, he immediately wants to start the celebration off with drinks. Rats!... Here's the recap of his visit: wine, wine, tapas, wine, wine?, break, bottle of wine/nap, dinner + bottle of wine, drunk, cocktail, cocktail, shot of nastiness invited by bartender, shot of cheap tequila, wasted, dancing, bed, hangover, booze blues. All in all, the complete opposite of what I consciously wanted to do.... Ahhh...Pilar. Again? Por que? No mistakes. Just opportunities to learn. Maybe I got it this time.
The day of Pilar, hung over and depressed. The gloomy skies and rain don't help. It is also the culmination of the festivities with the procession of flowers. Many, many, many Zaragozians and countrymen from across the state of Aragon come dressed in traditional attire to honor the Virgin with an offering of flowers. This is an all day event. One continuous flow of people, waiting their turn, to set out on the walk to la Plaza del Pilar, to lay their flowers at the base of the Pillar. Honestly, it was depressing. It felt more like a funeral procession than a celebration in her honor. That, combined with my hangover and the regrets from the previous evening and the sad, sad music being blasted over the PA made me want to cry. And I think la Virgin got the same feeling... were those tear drops or rain drops? It made me wonder about the meaning of "las fiestas" and the devotees have for their local Mother Mary. It seemed to me the message that Mother Mary stood for and was trying to relay to the people was a message of Love, Love, Love... I fear that perhaps, the original message, might have been lost in translation... like mother, like son? Where was this great love on the day of the 12th of October in Zaragoza? Love was replaced with idolatry, a shrine to her memory, but nothing of her message seemed to be present.

This is the message I got: Pilar does not reside in the city walls of Zaragoza, nor in the beautiful cathedral built in her honor. Pilar resides in heart. Pure love. That I am. Always. Everywhere. It may have been a long way to travel for such a simple message (and one that I probably have heard before in other ways), but I think it was worth it, no?
And to wrap things up.. my last day in Spain... finishing things off in Barcelona, lunching on Jamon(ham...yummm)Serrano, cheese, and bread(my dad's favorite kind of lunch... yes, i am daddy's little girl), I am ready to go "home." Europe is nice, but not my style(especially fashion wise these days... 80's gypsy hippies.. with bodysuits. really? im shocked that those are back in style. shocked). I miss my warm, friendly Mexico and Mexicans. I miss Yola. I miss the ocean. And i miss salsa! I came. I saw. I went. But this time, I don't know if and when I will be back. To me, Europe lacks "vida" (life). It's got all these "pretty" walls, monuments and streets, but feels completely empty to me... AND it really pisses me off that I can't get anyone to serve me some Paella, damnit. They all say, minimum 2 people. WTF? It's me versus the Spanish and the Spanish win. Fuck'em. Im going for Indian tonight. Peace out.